The Black Isle, Scotland: A Highland Escape by the Sea
Just north of Inverness lies the Black Isle - not actually an island, but a quietly beautiful peninsula of winding lanes, fishing villages, and farmland that rolls gently towards the sea. It’s one of those places you don’t always plan around, but somehow ends up being one of the most memorable parts of a Highlands trip.
We love it so much that we've had more than a few “shall we just move here” conversations along the way!
Although it feels gently tucked away, the Black Isle is only a short drive from Inverness, making it an easy day trip from the city. Or a natural early stop on a North Coast 500 itinerary, and we’ve often folded it into a wider east coast route alongside Dunrobin Castle.
Either way, you could say the Black Isle has become a place we linger a little longer than intended.
For me, the Black Isle is at its best when you treat it as a day of small discoveries rather than a checklist, so my guide to visiting this coastal spot is a slow one. And it includes the places I keep returning to, along with a few practical tips to help you plan your own route.
How long do you need on the Black Isle?
You can comfortably explore the Black Isle's highlights in a long day, with total driving time around 1.5 hours. But in my experience, this is one of those places where you’ll naturally want to slow down.
We’ve passed through in a day before, ticking off a handful of stops, but it never quite does the peninsula justice.
The real appeal of the Black Isle lies in the in-between moments: exploring places like Fortrose and Cromarty, where the pace slows, and the details start to stand out.
If your itinerary allows, I’d recommend staying at least one night, and if you do, we love and recommend boutique Newhall Mains.
Staying longer gives you space to experience both the coastline and the countryside, wander down quiet lanes, stop for coffee in a café locals actually use, and take your time on beaches that rarely feel crowded.
That said, it’s an easy return to Inverness or a quick drive to rejoin the North Coast 500.
But if you have more time to spend in the Scottish Highlands, the Black Isle also fits naturally into a wider east coast route through some of Scotland’s prettiest but lesser-visited scenery, like the Moray Coast.
Quick Guide: Black Isle Day Trip
Craft beers and brewery tour at Black Isle Brewery
Berry picking and farm shop at Black Isle Berries
Wander around the historic village of Fortrose
Scottish gifts at Coorie Company and Harbour Lane
Dolphin spotting at Chanonry Point
Lunch at IV10 or Bakhoos Bakery
Craft beer shop at Cromarty Brewing Co
Wander around the coastal village of Cromarty
Coffee at Last Splash
Boat trip with Ecoventures
Coastal walk at Rosemarkie Beach
Explore Fairy Glen Falls
Dinner at Plough Inn or Sutor Creek
Tips For Planning Your Visit:
Driving time: The full loop from Inverness to Cromarty and back takes around 1.5 hours without stops, but I’d treat that as a minimum, because this route rewards slow travel and frequent stops. A full day gives you enough time to explore without rushing, but if you can, stay overnight for the most relaxed visit.
When to visit: I’ve found spring through autumn to be the sweet spot, when the coastline feels at its best, and you’ve got a good chance of spotting dolphins.
Parking & roads: You’ll find small, usually free public car parks in the villages mentioned below. The roads in the Black Isle are mainly normal carriageways (not single-track), but they are rural, so expect narrow, winding, and slow-going driving.
Public transport: You can easily visit the Black Isle by bus, and the Stagecoach 26A service from Inverness Bus Station runs reasonably regularly to Fortrose, Cromarty and Rosemarkie. You can buy tickets on the bus by card or cash, and the journey takes around 45 minutes, depending on your first stop. Check the ‘Plan Your Journey’ tab for current departure times, though we recommend the 8.45am service, which gives you plenty of time to explore.
Bus tip: If you’re planning to visit both Fortrose and Cromarty, check the connecting bus times and plan your journey accordingly. You’ll also need to amend or skip a few of the more rural stops in the itinerary below.
Best things to do on the Black Isle
1. Start at Black Isle Brewery
Begin the day by crossing the Kessock Bridge from Inverness. It’s an easy, gentle start, with wide views opening out as you leave the city behind. Once over the bridge, look out for the “Black Isle” signpost.
If you’re a craft beer fan, I’d suggest heading straight for the Black Isle Brewery, just outside Munlochy.
This independent organic brewery produces some of Scotland’s best small-batch beers, using local barley and pure Highland water. If you have time, join a short tour or buy a selection of beers to take away - we’ve tried a fair few over the years, but the Blonde and the Porter are the ones we keep coming back to.
If you have time, wander through the gardens and polytunnels, where they grow much of the organic produce for the pizzas served in their Inverness and Fort William bars.
2. Go berry picking at Black Isle Berries
Foodies will love Black Isle Berries, a family-run farm turned bougie berry-picking hotspot. From spring, pick your own strawberries, raspberries, and gooseberries (depending on the season and crop), stock up on farm produce in the shop, and grab a freshly made soup, focaccia, cake or coffee from the cafe.
This is a lush spot and deserves a few hours if you’re planning to wander through the polytunnels! It does get busy at the weekend, so visit early or choose a weekday to avoid the crowds.
3. Visit historic Fortrose
From here, it’s a short drive to the village of Fortrose, which sits on the peninsula's southern edge.
There’s not a long list of “things to do” here, which is exactly the point.
Take a wander through the town; the pink sandstone houses are charming, with boutique homeware and gift stores lining the streets (we love Coorie Company and Harbour Lane), and the ruins of Fortrose Cathedral sit quietly in the centre of the village, a reminder of its historically important past.
You can also walk down to the rocky beach, where the dolphins frequently pass at low tide.
4. Stop for lunch
Fortrose is one of my favourite places to pause for lunch on the Black Isle, and it's home to two of our absolute favourite places to eat in the Highlands.
Choose IV10 café bar for relaxed, delicious sharing plates, deli-style lunches, pastries, and coffee with homemade bakes; this chic little cafe is incredibly popular with locals, so book a table in advance to guarantee a table. Or head further along the road to Bakhoos Bakery for excellent sourdough, pastries, and a quick takeaway.
Alternatives: Black Isle Berries cafe, Sutor Creek in Cromarty, or Kirk & Co in Munlochy.
5. Spot dolphins at Chanonry Point
From Fortrose, follow the coast out to Chanonry Point, one of the best places in Scotland to see wild bottlenose dolphins from the shore. On the right tide, you’ll often see them surprisingly close to land, moving through the narrow channel between here and Fort George. If you can, time your visit for a rising tide, ideally within a couple of hours after low tide.
Parking near the lighthouse is limited, but you can walk from Fortrose, which takes around 30 minutes each way.
6. Walk to the Fairy Glen Falls in Rosemarkie
A few minutes further along the coast brings you to the charming village of Rosemarkie. You can walk here from Fortrose along the coastal path, which follows a long stretch of sandy beach before reaching the village, with its pretty cottages and cosy pub.
From Rosemarkie, it’s a short walk to Fairy Glen Falls. The path leads into a shaded woodland gorge that feels completely removed from the coastline you’ve just left behind.
We’ve done this walk in all seasons, but it’s particularly lovely after rainfall, when the waterfalls are in full flow, and the woodland greens feel almost impossibly deep. The path can be muddy in places, so decent boots, or wellies, are a must!
And honestly, I’d go as far as to say this little glen easily rivals better-known waterfalls elsewhere in Scotland. It’s quieter, more enclosed, and feels just a little more untouched.
Afterwards, stop at The Plough Inn for a pint of local Cromarty Brewing beer and a delicious pizza, or wander down to Rosemarkie Beach for a final stretch of sea air.
7. Continue north to coastal Cromarty
From Rosemarkie, the drive north to Cromarty is one of my favourite stretches on the peninsula.
The coastal village of Cromarty sits right at the tip of the Black Isle, and it’s a place we keep returning to. Once a busy port, it’s now known for its Georgian architecture, small independent galleries, and colourful houses facing out towards the sea. Take your time here. Wander the lanes, visit the lighthouse and boutique stores, and follow the shoreline down towards the harbour.
For coffee, Last Splash is always a good stop with a view out over the water. And craft beer fans should also visit Cromarty Brewing Co on the outskirts of the village.
8. Dinner at Sutor Creek
If you’re staying into the evening, I’d book Sutor Creek for dinner. It’s a proper local favourite, known for its stone-baked pizzas, seasonal plates, local seafood, and genuinely warm welcome. The menu shifts throughout the year, but the focus on local produce stays the same.
Though known for its pizzas, the last time we visited, we ordered a lush lamb shank and creamy mash dish, plus steak and chips, both equally delicious. This is a popular and small restaurant, so booking in advance is best.
Alternatives: Spruce at Newhalls Main, IV10 in Fortrose, Plough Inn at Rosemarkie, or Fishertown Inn in Cromarty.
9. End the day at The Fishertown Inn
To round things off, head to The Fishertown Inn. In winter, it’s all about the fire and a pint. In summer, we keep it simple: something cold in hand, sitting outside, watching the light soften over the water. It’s a quiet, easy end to the day.
If you’re not quite ready to leave, embrace peninsula life and stay the night. A handful of lovely small stays are here, but Newhall Mains, near Cromarty, is one of our favourites. Alternatively, you can either return to Inverness, continue east along the Moray Coast, or pick up the North Coast 500 as you head further north.
Explore more on the Black Isle
If you’re planning to spend a little longer here, these guides will help you go deeper:
A detailed guide to Cromarty, its harbour, and where to spend time
Where to see dolphins on the Black Isle
