the Isle of Skye (northwest)

85 miles | 3 hours driving | Google Map

An option that takes you into some of Skye’s most famous scenery at Glenbrittle, followed by a journey into its lesser-visited northwest corner, where you’ll find Waternish and Dunvegan.

It’s a wonderfully varied day: white sands, clan heritage, coastal stillness, whisky, and some of Skye’s most iconic mountain scenery.

There are also excellent places to eat and drink along the way, with speciality coffee shops, brilliant cafes, and top-notch seafood on offer.


Sligachan Old Bridge

Start your day at Sligachan Old Bridge, one of the most iconic viewpoints on Skye. It can be busy with tour buses, but visiting at this point (early in the day), it should be far quieter.

The stone bridge arches gracefully over the River Sligachan, perfectly framed by the jagged peaks of the Black Cuillin. On a clear day, this is one of the island’s classic photo spots.

There’s no long walk required. From the car park, it’s just a short stroll to the bridge and riverbank, where you can take in the views in both directions. If you have a little more time, you can wander slightly upstream along the path for different angles back towards the mountains.

Parking:free car park

Time: around 15 minutes

Fairy Pools

The Fairy Pools are one of Skye’s most iconic sights, with crystal-clear cascades set against the dramatic backdrop of the Black Cuillin. Because of their popularity, the car park can get very busy, particularly in peak season, and the single-track road leading in is often congested.

To make the most of your visit, try to arrive early, ideally before 9 am, to avoid the crowds.

The walk from the car park typically takes around an hour, depending on how far you go, and follows a well-maintained gravel path throughout. It’s a magical spot for a short stroll or a longer wander, and a perfect way to take in some of Skye’s most celebrated scenery.

Directions:Fairy Pools car park

Parking: It costs £8 for all-day parking. Toilets on-site are open until 5pm.

If you don’t mind an extra 10 minutes’ walking, you can alternatively park at Glenbrittle Forest car park for free, which is quieter and avoids the busiest areas.

Time: Allow roughly 1.5 hours in total for the drive, parking, and walk.

Brunch at Cafe Cùil

Head to Café Cùil, often regarded as one of the best cafés on Skye. The menu focuses on hearty, freshly prepared brunch dishes, complemented by a selection of homemade cakes, excellent coffee, and a variety of teas.

We recommend the slow-cooked Lochalsh beef brisket with Orkney cheddar sauce and a poached egg. Or the Scotch pancakes with rhubarb & gingernut crumble and gorse flower mascarpone.

It’s a relaxed, welcoming spot, and perfect for a mid-morning stop. No booking is required; however, it can get busy at peak times, so arriving a little early is recommended.

Whether you’re after a full meal or just a coffee and a slice of cake, it’s a fantastic way to fuel up before continuing your day.

Directions:Cafe Cuil car park

If you’d prefer something more formal, I’ll add a few more eating options around Carbost below.

Talisker Distillery, Carbost

Founded in 1830, Talisker Distillery is the oldest working distillery on Skye and remains one of Scotland’s most distinctive island single malts. Built on the shores of Loch Harport with the Cuillin rising behind, its remote setting is very much part of its character - maritime, smoky and unmistakably coastal in style.

Even if you’re not planning a full tour, the visit is worthwhile.

The distillery shop and Campfire bar are open to visitors without advance booking, and your non-drivers can enjoy a whisky flight or tasting at the bar.

If you would like to take a tour, typical options include:

  • Guided Distillery Tour (approx. 60–75 minutes)
    A behind-the-scenes look at the production process (from milling and mashing through to the still house and maturation), finishing with a guided tasting. This is the best choice if you’re interested in how Talisker’s peppery, maritime character is created and a deeper whisky experience.

  • Tasting Experiences (approx. 30–45 minutes)
    Focused seated tastings exploring different expressions, sometimes including special or aged releases. Ideal if you’re more interested in flavour than production and would rather spend time exploring other parts of the island.

Tickets: Tours generally run throughout the day, but availability can be limited, and time slots do fill quickly. If this is a highlight for you, I’d suggest booking a late-morning or early-afternoon slot to fit comfortably between Dunvegan/Waternish and the Fairy Pools. You can find tours and tickets here.

Directions: Talisker car park (free)

Just across the road, you’ll find Caora Dhubh Coffee, Skye’s small-batch island roastery, an excellent stop for a coffee before continuing your drive.

Other places to eat in Carbost

  • The Oyster Shed - a rustic seafood shack with fresh, locally caught seafood. A short but steep uphill walk to get here, but worth it!

  • The Old Inn - a traditional inn with hearty food and drink, you may want to return here for dinner one nights. Best booked in advance.

  • Three Chimneys at Talisker - if you’re looking for a more formal lunch today (or an early dinner on a different event), we highly recommend this eatery. The food, made with local produce from the acclaimed Three Chimneys team, is excellent. Best booked in advance.

Route note

Carbost → Dunvegan Castle

Leaving Carbost, follow the single-track road north out of the village, retracing your route briefly before joining the A863 toward Dunvegan. The road undulates gently through open moorland, with wide views back toward Loch Harport and, on a clear day, the dark outline of the Black Cuillin behind you.

As you continue north, the landscape softens into rolling hills and patchwork croft land. Traffic is usually light, but sections of single track require use of passing places — take your time and allow oncoming vehicles to pass courteously. Sheep are common on the verges.

Approaching Dunvegan, you’ll see Loch Dunvegan open out ahead, its sheltered waters contrasting with the wilder Atlantic coastline beyond. Follow brown tourist signs for Dunvegan Castle, which guide you down toward the shoreline and into the clearly marked visitor car park.

Allow approximately 35–45 minutes for the drive, depending on stops and road conditions.

Dun Beag Broch, Struan

A Broch is an Iron Age round stone tower only found in Scotland. Dun Beag Broch sits up high on a rocky knoll and was built around 2,000 years ago. Even though it’s a ruin, you can still see its double-wall construction and defensive architecture.

It’s a short walk up to the Broch through a muddy field filled with sheep.

Directions: Dun Beag car park

Parking: a small muddy car park. Aim for the first entrance; the second is heavily rutted.

Time: approximately 20 minutes. 

Dunvegan Castle & Gardens

Set on the shores of Loch Dunvegan, Dunvegan Castle has been the ancestral home of Clan MacLeod for over 800 years, making it the oldest continuously inhabited castle in Scotland. What you see today is the result of centuries of additions and alterations, blending a medieval fortress with a later Highland estate house.

Inside, the rooms tell the story of the clan through portraits, artefacts and heirlooms, including the famous Fairy Flag - a silk banner steeped in legend and said to hold protective powers. It’s not an especially large castle, so the visit feels manageable rather than overwhelming.

The gardens are a highlight in their own right. Sheltered by the surrounding hills, they are surprisingly lush, with woodland walks, formal planting and views across the loch.

Seal-Spotting Boat Trip

From the castle’s small jetty, you can take a short boat trip (on a traditional clinker boat) out onto Loch Dunvegan to visit the resident seal colony. The trips run regularly throughout the day (weather permitting), last about 25–30 minutes, and are informal and enjoyable - often a real highlight. Tickets are purchased directly at the waterside kiosk for £10.50 per person.

If you’d like to do this, please allow extra time, and we recommend doing the boat trip first, then the castle.

Directions: Follow brown tourist signs for Dunvegan Castle car park

Parking: Large free car park on site.

Tickets: buy at the gate; castle and garden entry is £17.50 per adult.

Time: Around 60–90 minutes for the castle and gardens; closer to 2 hours if including the boat trip.

There is a café on site, but for something more characterful, I’d suggest heading into the village afterwards and stopping at The Dunvegan Deli for a lighter lunch or good coffee before continuing your day.

Dunvegan Coffee Shop

The Dunvegan cafe & deli (inside the Dunvegan Hotel) does some of the best coffee & cake on Skye. The café is super cosy and has plenty of seating.

Parking: public car park (free)

Route Note

From the Dunvegan Castle car park, return briefly to the village and follow signs for Claigan/Coral Beach. You’ll soon leave the main road behind.

The final stretch is a narrow, single-track road with passing places. It’s perfectly manageable, but take it slowly and be prepared to reverse to the nearest passing place if needed. Visibility can be limited around bends, and sheep frequently wander across the tarmac. Drive cautiously and allow extra time during busier summer months.

As you continue north, the landscape becomes increasingly open and coastal. You’ll pass scattered crofts, dry-stone walls, and wide views across Loch Dunvegan toward the Outer Hebrides on a clear day.

Coral Beach

Coral Beach is a beautiful, secluded white-sand beach with coral fragments and shells. It’s a 3.8 km (2.4-mile) out-and-back, flat coastal walk. The trail here is mainly gravel and generally mud-free. The car park gets busy; however, as you’ll likely arrive late afternoon, there should be space.

OS Maps route

Directions: free car park

Parking: free car park, but it’s small, muddy and rutted.

Time: around an hour.

Route note

Coral Beach → Dunvegan → Stein, Waternish

Retrace your steps from Coral Beach back toward Dunvegan Castle, following the same scenic single-track roads you drove earlier. Take care on the narrow sections, using passing places as needed, and enjoy the coastal and moorland views along the way.

From Dunvegan, continue north along the A850 as it winds through the rolling hills of Waternish. The drive is relatively short but showcases some of Skye’s quieter landscapes, with scattered crofts, lochs, and glimpses of the surrounding coastline.

Stein is a charming village tucked into a small bay, offering a peaceful stop for coffee, a snack, or simply to admire the lochside views. The roads are well-maintained, though still narrow in places, so allow a little extra time to enjoy the drive and take in the scenery.

Driving time from Coral Beach to Stein via Dunvegan is around 30–40 minutes without stops, but you may wish to factor in extra for short breaks and photos.

Stein & Waternish

Crafts & Souveniers

On the road to Stein, there are two small, local studios worth visiting for authentic souvenirs.

First, there’s Skíō, a small, independent, minimalist pottery maker. I recommend stopping off if they’re open (ÒR in Portree also stocks their pottery).

Directions: Skíō car park

Second, there’s Skyeskyns, a small, independent sheepskin rug maker with a quirky café yurt outside with great views. They do fantastic coffee and homemade cakes/island produce. Highly recommend for a casual bite – order the platter with homemade sausage rolls, quiche, and soup.

Directions: Skyeskyns car park

Lastly, we also recommend visiting Donnie's Tablet Shed, which is 5-10 minutes away from Skyeskyns. A thrifty local making a roaring trade from his donation box tablet shed (sugary Scottish fudge) and now online too. This road is rarely visited. On a nice day, the Skye landscape views are phenomenal.

Directions: Donnie's layby

Stein

A quaint row of whitewashed cottages with views over Loch Bay, there’s no big sights here - but that’s actually the point. Take a break from a busy day with a wander along the coast and soak in the gorgeous views.

This little hamlet is most famous for the quirky Stein Inn, the oldest pub on Skye. And next door, the Michelin-starred Loch Bay restaurant. Both serve excellent, locally-caught seafood. The former is relaxed, the latter a tasting menu and destination dining eatery that requires pre-booking.

On a nice day, it’s a great place to sit and relax with a cold drink on the benches overlooking Loch Bay. Keep an eye out for the beach chickens!

Directions: park by the pier

Time: 20-30 minutes, longer if eating

Route Note

Stein, Waternish → Portree

From Stein, return south along the A850 toward the junction with the A87. Traffic is usually light, but some sections are narrow, single-track, so take care and use passing places when needed.

Once you reach the A87, turn east toward Portree. As you descend toward Portree, you’ll spot the town ahead. Driving time is approximately 40 minutes without stops, though you may wish to allow extra time for scenic viewpoints or a short break along the way.

Alternatively, add Neist Point to your evening (see “Skye Essentials”).

Previous
Previous

Skye (North Route)

Next
Next

Isle of Skye Essentials