A Complete Guide To Visiting The Ardnamurchan Peninsula
With beautiful beaches, sleepy coastal villages and dramatic sea views, the peninsula of Ardnamurchan is something of a hidden gem. In fact, we bet that most visitors to Scotland (and some of its residents) haven’t heard of this off-the-beaten track place.
Yet despite its unassuming reputation, this dramatic and remote area on Scotland’s west coast is one of my favourite destinations.
The’ headland of the great seas’, Ardnamurchan is the most western part of the UK mainland and is beautifully unspoilt with long drives through truly wild landscapes. Surrounded on three sides by the Atlantic Ocean, its remoteness is accentuated by the winding single track road which forms the main route across much of its length.
Exploring the Ardnamurchan Peninsula
Ardnamurchan isn’t your typical Scottish destination. It’s wild, remote, a bit isolated and has an astonishingly deserted feel – this is place where you can spend most of your time uninterrupted, and if really want to, get completely lost and forget about the rest of the world.
Vast moorlands, rocky sea cliffs and ancient woodlands dominate much of the landscape, with deserted beaches and fjord like lochs providing plenty of opportunities to explore.
It’s also home to an abundance of wildlife. You’ll spot herds of deer running in the distance, and we’ve spent many happy hours on the lookout for otters, seals and golden eagles along the shore. Make your way to lighthouse and look out for dolphins and whales which are frequently spotted nearby.
To put it simply: this is a hidden part of Scotland you never expect to see. Home to around 2000 people, if you want to discover somewhere wonderfully remote few places beckon quite like the endless seascapes and dazzling vistas of the Ardnamurchan Peninsula.
How to get to Ardnamurchan
Just getting to Ardnamurchan is an adventure and you know the moment you embark the tiny ferry at Corran that this place is going to be special. Whilst attached to the mainland, Ardnamurchan feels very much like an island. It’s hard to put into words how disconnected and remote Ardnamurchan really is. Home to the most westerly point in the UK, it’s quite literally at the end of the road.
Accessibly by road and boat, these are the best ways to get to Ardnamurchan:
The RoRo: Catch the ‘roll-on-roll-off’ ferry at Corran, near Fort William and take the short journey across beautiful Loch Linnhe. The Corran ferry runs until 9.30 pm every day and costs £8.80 single for a car or small campervan. There’s no advance booking, simply turn up at the ferry terminal (called Nether Lochaber on the timetable).
Road: Drive the road from Mallaig or Glenfinnan. To get to Ardnamurchan take the Road to the Isles (A830) and turn south at Lochailort - the drive will take a few hours and is very winding but also very beautiful.
Ferry: Or catch a ferry to Ardnamurchan from the Isle of Mull. There are 2 ferry options, from either Tobermory or Fishnish, depending where you are on Mull. Check the Calmac timetable from Tobermory to Kilchoan. Either route make a short but lovely crossing; be sure to go out on deck, there’s a high chance of spotting dolphins in the waters here.
What to know before travelling to Ardnamurchan
How long to spend: I was genuinely surprised by just how much there is to see and do on Ardnamurchan - and how much time it takes to explore this apparently small peninsula. There’s also a lot of driving between stops, and on the single-track roads it will take longer than you might think to get around. I’d suggest staying at least 4 nights, longer if you want to add in more walks.
When to visit: In summer or autumn when you want to escape Scotland’s busier places. Head way out west in favour of Ardnamurchan’s dramatic seascapes and unspoilt wilderness.
Fuel: Don’t underestimate the amount of fuel you’ll need to get around Ardnamurchan - hilly, winding roads use more petrol than you think. I’d suggest filling your tank before coming onto the peninsula, either at Glencoe or Fort William. If you need to fuel up on Ardnamurchan, there’s only two petrol stations: at Strontian and Kilchoan. If you’re travelling further around the peninsula, make sure you have plenty fuel so you don’t get caught out.
Amenities: If you’re in a camper or tenting and looking to stock up on groceries then head to Strontian, Salen or Acharacle for well-stocked village stores all selling fresh produce, meals, alcohol and general groceries.. Acharacle has the biggest store and most choice, whilst Strontian also has a good selection. The Salen Jetty Shop is the smallest of the stores so has a limited range of groceries, yet is my favourite - pick up fresh, local produce including veg, Highland cheese, and venison. Then takeaway delicious homemade cake with freshly brewed coffee from lovely owners Anita and Paul.
Check online for opening times, but note that these aren’t always updated especially for autumn/winter - if you have any doubt/can’t be flexible, then call ahead to confirm.
Single-track roads: If you’re new to driving in Scotland’s remote places, then prepare yourself for single-track roads. Ardnamurchan is predominantly single-track, and I think has some of the hilliest, winding, thinnest roads I’ve driven on in Scotland. Take it easy, go slow, and pull into passing places on your side when you see a car approaching (or to let a faster car overtake).
Where to stay on Ardnamurchan
Camping/Touring: Base yourself at the Ardnamurchan Campsite at Kilchoan, the most western village in the UK (close to the Kilchoan to Tobermory, Mull, ferry).
Hotels: You’ll find traditional, small hotels aplenty on Ardnamurchan. My top picks are: the remote Kilchoan Hotel, a small hotel that is convenient for the Mull ferry and exploring the sites on the west of the peninsula. Closer to the Corran Ferry and mainland is family run Strontian Hotel on the shores of Loch Sunart. Or stay at the Salen Hotel, a traditional small hotel overlooking Salen Bay which makes a great base for exploring all around Ardnamurchan. All have bars and small restaurants serving hearty dishes.
B&Bs: Otterburn B&B is a cosy home stay complete with big breakfasts and big views. Close to the Corran Ferry, Otterburn B&B also offer evening kayak tours on Loch Sunart.
Inns: A little further north is the Glenuig Inn, an eco-friendly small hotel with the most spectacular sea views, delicious food and impressive green credentials.
Cottages: If you’re looking for something a little more unique check out these Ardnamurchan holiday cottages or quirky Airbnb stays.
Luxury: Looking for luxury accommodation? Then check out triple AA Rosette Kilcamb Lodge Hotel or Mingarry Castle - both high on my hotel wish list!
The Best Things to do on Ardnamurchan - and why it should be your next Scottish Adventure
Days spent exploring Ardnamurchan are arguably best spent outdoors and there’s so much to see and do. Beach days, scenic viewpoints, wild swimming, exploring castles, coastal walks, wildlife spotting - and that’s before adding in seafood stops or a distillery tour.
So, I’d advise taking time to do your research and plan an itinerary around the things you like the most. Here are my top recommendations of the best things to do on Ardnamurchan:
1. Visit Ardnamurchan Point
The crossroads at Kilchoan carry you the remaining miles west on the very narrow B8007 to Ardnamurchan Point, where the Atlantic relentlessly pounds the cliffs and Ardnamurchan Lighthouse stands guard over the ocean. It takes some effort to get here, but the views and peacefulness are worth every mile.
This is the westerly point in the UK and home to the friendliest Collie dogs we’ve ever met - if you meet Ted and Peggy say hello from me! The community run lighthouse also has a small café - the only one for miles around - serving really delicious coffee and cakes.
2. Explore stunning Sanna Bay
One of the best places to visit on Ardnamurchan and somewhere you can’t miss is the incredible beach at Sanna Bay. This sweep of white sandy beach is surrounded by the clearest blue waters and views over the the Small Isles of Eigg and Rum - it is absolutely stunning.
I’ve seen beautiful beaches around Scotland, but truly this is one of the most beautiful. Whilst you can visit Sanna Bay by car (note that the the road here is rough and winds through a remote landscape but is completely worth the drive) you can also walk the coastal trail from the cliffs high above the village of Portuairk.
Or bring your bathing suit for a wild swim in the sheltered bay and be sure to explore the 3m-high wind-sculpted sand dunes that hide even smaller secret bays. You can find the best tide times here.
3. Drive through a volcano crater
Head north from Kilchoan village and experience what it’s like to drive through the chamber of an extinct volcanic crater at Achnaha. This road leads to the white sandy beach of Sanna Bay, but the scenery surrounding this single-track road is breathtakingly barren and rugged. Whilst the ring of the once-active volcano is clear from the road, if you want to gain some perspective, the best place is just a short walk from the road at the starting point to the abandoned crofting village of Glendrian. Follow this walk onto the hills for some amazing panoramic views of the ring complex.
4. Visit Castle Tioram
At the village of Salen take the road north to Loch Moidart to visit the beautiful Castle Tioram (1½ miles north of Acharacle on the A861) - the best way to see the castle in all it’s glory is the Silver Walk circuit. Be mindful that the walk takes you along steep cliffs with drop-offs, so be extra careful here.
5. Hike Beinn Resipol
This is the highest peak in the area at 845m and one of the UKs most western peaks. Hiking Beinn Resipol takes around 6 hours and the views over Loch Sunart out to the sea and islands beyond is absolutely incredible.
Route: hike Beinn Resipol
Read next: 10 Best Walks in Ardnamurchan
6. go Wild swimming
The coastal waters around Ardnamurchan are some of the clearest and bluest I’ve ever seen.
One way to experience it is by getting out on the water and it’s so easy on Ardnamurchan to find beautiful spots for a wild swim. Sea swimmers will love the sheltered bays and turquoise waters at Ardtoe Beach and Sanna Bay.
Lovers of fresh water should head to Acharacle, where a jetty leads gently into the picture-perfect waters of Loch Shiel. You’ll find the car park just behind the Loch Shiel hotel - pop in after your swim for dinner by the fire, or nearby Cafe Tioram for a hearty lunch.
Check the tide times on Ardnamurchan before hand.
7. Kayak on Loch Sunart
Equally beautiful is tranquil Loch Sunart. If you have a kayak, canoe or SUP then Loch Sunart is the perfect place to get out on the water; here the tide is manageably mellow, which also makes it perfect for wild swims.
My favourite spot is the rocky shore across from Resipole Farm (ask at reception to use their car park). Further along the road is you’ll find another launching spot at the Salen Jetty Shop - head right on the slip, over the rocks. Afterwards warm up with a freshly brewed coffee and delicious homemade cake from the store.
If you don’t have your own raft then book a guided kayak tour with Otter Adventures who’ll take you out on Loch Sunart.
8. Ardtoe Wild Beach
One of the most beautiful wild beaches to go explore is at Ardtoe, north of Kentra. It’s a secret little spot at the end of a long and winding road over barren but beautiful Kentra Moss.
There’s a clifftop walk here as well as the most pristine bay, with white sands and the bluest water. We didn’t get to fully explore this area, just had a stroll and scramble over the rocks.
My biggest regret was not camping by the beach to see sunset - I’d love to come back to this secluded coastal gem with a camper van. It costs £5 for a very wild, very informal overnight stay in a small car park (pay in an honesty box and do bring everything you need).
9. Explore The ancient Oakwoods
One of the most beautiful walks on Ardnamurchan is also one of the shortest - it only takes around an hour to explore Salen’s oak woodlands but this forest walk really is a lovely forest walk.
The clear trail winds through the ancient oakwood, one of the few remnants of the 'rain forest' that once clothed Europe's Atlantic coast.
There is a huge amount of wildlife, flora and fauna in these woods, and occasional views over Loch Sunart. Definitely make time for a walk here in autumn when the forest canopy explodes in shades of orange.
Route: walk Salen oakwoods
10. Whisky tasting at Ardnamurchan Distillery
If you’re a whisky fan, then be sure to visit Ardnamurchan’s ‘green distillery’.
The only distillery on the peninsula is also Scotland’s most westerly whisky producer, and a sustainable one at that. The distillery runs on fully renewable energy to keep their footprint light, recycling their leftover product into animal feed.
Tours run daily and include a dram of single malt - though not of whisky made onsite, which isn’t yet ready. I’ll be coming back in 2021 for a taste of the first Ardnamurchan Single Malt, currently maturing in oak, ex-sherry casks.
You’ll find the Ardnamurchan Distillery at Glenbeg, Acharacle, around an hour’s drive from the Corran Ferry. Standard tours with a single dram cost £8 per person - book your space here.
Final thoughts
The Ardnamurchan Peninsula has so much to love. This is the ultimate under-the-radar Scotland trip and I hope these photos will inspire you to visit Ardnamurchan.
If you visit (or you’ve already been) I’d love to hear about your experiences. Let me know the places you recommend in the comments below. I can’t wait to return and explore more of this beautifully wild peninsula, and can guarantee I’ll be back again.
